Handmade Attaka Miso" made with Hokuryu-machi rice and soybeans, with no added chemical seasonings, has a nostalgic old-fashioned taste (Ryuunishi Farm Co., Ltd.)

Monday, February 21, 2022

(President: Akihiro Adachi) is making "handmade warm miso" using rice and soybeans grown at Ryuunishi Farm. We had the opportunity to cover the miso making process over a four-day period.

Handmade Attaka Miso" has been produced at Ryuunishi Farm, an agricultural cooperative corporation, since around 1975 (Showa 50). After the transition to Ryuunishi Farm, the manufacturing method was taken over and has been improved upon to the present day.

(Ryuunishi Farm Co.

The factory where miso production is currently taking place was newly constructed seven years ago.

株式会社竜西農場(安達明広 代表取締役)和事務所
(Akihiro Adachi, Representative Director) Wa Office, Ryusai Farm Co.

working member

The working members are Naoko Adachi, Mihoko Nagai, Miki Akamatsu, and Miyuki Takahashi. The group is composed mainly of farmer mothers.

Ingredients (no chemical seasoning added): Soybeans (Hokuryu-machi, non-genetically modified), rice (Hokuryu-machi), salt

The ingredients are a blend of rice (Nanatsuboshi and Yukisayaka) and soybeans (non-genetically modified) produced at Ryuunishi Farm, koji mold (seed koji) from Akita Konno Shoten (Daisen City, Akita Prefecture), and salt from Namisalt.

Steamed rice is mixed with koji mold to make rice malt, which is then mixed with boiled soybeans, salt, and rice malt to make miso, which is then slowly laid down for about one and a half to two years.

Yukisayaka" rice produced in Hokuryu Town

北竜町産米「ゆきさやか」
Yukisayaka" rice produced in Hokuryu Town

Hokuryu soybeans

北竜町産大豆「とよみづき」
Soybeans "Toyomizuki" produced in Hokuryu Town

Diamond salt

ダイヤソルト並塩
Diamond salt

The taste of handmade warm miso

Most miso in Hokkaido is made with a ratio of koji to soybeans of 1:1, but "Tezukuri Attaka Miso" is made with a ratio of koji to soybeans of 0.7:1. Because the ratio of koji is low, this miso has less sweetness and more saltiness. If anything, it is said to have a flavor similar to that of common miso in Honshu.

手づくりあったか味噌
Handmade warm miso

Miso Making Procedure

Miso making takes place about three times a year, and about 400 kg of "handmade atta-ta-miso" is prepared at each time. This time was the last preparation of the season.

1. soak rice in water overnight, drain, and steam.

  • Steam the rice in a steamer for about 30 minutes after the steam rises (99 kg of rice: 4.5 kg x 22 bags)
一晩水に浸したお米
Rice soaked in water overnight
浸水して水をしっかり切ったお米を蒸す
Steam soaked and drained rice.
蒸し器で30分ほど蒸す
Steam in a steamer for 30 minutes.
蒸し上がった米
steamed rice

2. Leave the steamed rice for about 10 minutes to cool to about 40°C (42~43°C), and sprinkle with koji mold (seed cutting).

  • Mix and shake koji mold and potato starch in a ratio of about 1 to 7.5. The katakuriko mixture is used to increase the fermentation rate (2 g of koji mold is shaken per 22 kg).
蒸した米を広げて冷ます
Spread steamed rice to cool.
温度を測定しながら冷ます
Cool while measuring temperature.
麹菌と片栗粉の量を測定
Measure the amount of koji and potato starch
麹菌&片栗粉を振りかける
Sprinkle with koji mold & potato starch
混ぜる
mix

Put rice mixed with seed koji into a board box, cover with a cloth, and place in an incubator to warm and ferment.

  • In the incubator, 90 kg of rice malt is kept warm, and hot water is kept inside the incubator to maintain humidity. Temperature and humidity are important for maturation. The incubator uses a seedling grower.
麹菌をふった米を板箱に入れる
Put rice sprinkled with koji mold into a wooden box.
布巾をかける
put a cloth on (the floor, etc.)
保温器に入れる
Place in incubator

4. fermentation while carefully adjusting the temperature (keep warm for 48 hours)

保温器で温度と湿度調整しながら熟成
Matures in an incubator while adjusting temperature and humidity
  • Keep warm at 35°C (30°C to 40°C is the adaptive temperature for breeding)
  • Koji fungi become inactive at temperatures below 15°C and become self-destructive at temperatures above 50°C due to heat generation
  • Koji bacteria reproduce by respiration, producing heat and carbon dioxide gas during respiration.
  • Frequent temperature control is necessary, as they will not be able to reproduce due to lack of oxygen if the air is not changed appropriately.

5. rice malt cutting back (floor fir)

  • The next day, mix rice to allow koji fermentation to proceed.
米麹 切り返し
rice malt, cut back
布巾をかけ、再び保温器で熟成
Cover with a cloth and again mature in an incubator

6. dekouji

  • After maturation is complete, the rice is transferred to a large wooden box to loosen and release the koji (dekoji).
大きな板箱に晒を敷く
Lay bleached on a large board box
米麹を板箱から取り出して広げる
Take rice malt out of the board box and spread it out.
  • Koji is in a good state of fermentation when the rice looks like a fluffy white flower blooming around it.
  • Koji contains a lot of enzymes!

Difference between "Koji" and "Koji": "Koji"-a national character created in Japan. This kanji comes from the way koji mold grows on rice like a flower blooming. Koji" is a Chinese character from China. It is made by steaming grains and propagating koji mold (koji mold). (Koji)Quoted from "Marukome.)

ふわふわの白い花咲く糀
Fluffy white flowering malt

7. salt cutting

  • Mix salt (6 kg) and koji (8.5 kg). By mixing salt, fermentation stops and the temperature does not rise, so it can be stored as it is for one day and can be worked on the next day.
米麹に塩を混ぜる
Mix rice malt with salt

8. soak soybeans in water overnight, drain, and boil or steam (alternating between boiling in a pot and using a steamer).

  • Total amount of soybeans this time: 4 kg x 30 bags
    Rinse the whole bag under running water and soak it in water overnight.
  • 24 kg of soybeans (4 kg x 6 bags) in 1 kettle, simmer for 30 minutes
30袋の大豆を流水でもみ洗い
30 bags of soybeans, rinsed under running water
一晩水に浸し水切りした大豆
Soybeans soaked in water overnight and drained
釜茹
boiling in an iron pot
アク取りしながら30分ほど茹でる
Boil for 30 minutes while removing the scum.
茹で上がった大豆を取り出す
Remove boiled soybeans
蒸し器で蒸した大豆を取り出す
Remove steamed soybeans from steamer.

9. mash the cooked soybeans in a machine

大豆を潰す
crush soybeans

10. Roll up the mashed soybeans, make a dent in the center (red blood cell shape, donut shape, etc.), and cool to about 40°C (104°F).

  • Depress the center to make it easier for soybeans to cool.
潰した大豆を丸めて中央を凹ませる
Roll up the mashed soybeans and dent the center.
赤血球型・ドーナツ型
Erythrocyte type, doughnut type
40℃くらいまで冷ます
Cool to about 40°C

11. miso preparation

  • Mixing rice malt, cooked soybeans, and salt
  • Mix all ingredients (rice malt, cooked soybeans, and salt) in a mixer.
丸めて冷ました大豆を混ぜ器に入れる
Rolled and cooled soybeans in a mixing bowl
塩・米麹も入れる
Also add salt and rice malt
種水(大豆の煮汁)を測って入れる
Measure and add seed water (soybean cooking water)
機械にかけて混ぜる
mix together (e.g. ingredients)
混ぜ終えた生地を取り出す
Take out the dough after mixing.
仕込みが完了
Preparation is complete.
倉庫に運んで樽へ
Transported to warehouse and into barrels.
塊を空気を抜くように叩き入れる
Tap the clumps into the air to remove air.

12. Miso paste prepared in barrels is left to mature for 1.5 to 2 years.

樽仕込み完了
Barrel preparation completed

Member Comments

Naoko Adachi has been making miso for 21 years, passing it on and improving it. Mihoko Nagai, Miyuki Takahashi, and Miki Akamatsu, who participated in the project as members, have been making miso for 10 years.

左より:安達直子さん、高橋みゆきさん、永井美保子さん、赤松未紀さん
From left: Naoko Adachi, Miyuki Takahashi, Mihoko Nagai, Miki Akamatsu
  • Since I started making miso here, I have started making homemade miso at home. When I give it out to people around me, they are very pleased. Making miso has been a great experience for me," says Nagai.
  • I often give it as a gift to my mother at home, and she is delighted, saying, 'It tastes like old miso, it has a nostalgic flavor,'" says Takahashi.
  • When I came to observe the miso making process and tasted this miso, I realized that I wanted to continue making it because it was my favorite miso with the taste I liked.

    I have inherited my predecessor's miso making for many years, and I am always impressed by the efficiency of the work process, especially in terms of procedures and tool placement.

    And we learn by participating in various training sessions, such as at the Food Processing Research Center. We use what we have learned to change our work methods and improve them through trial and error.

    I am very happy that people are enjoying the food," says Mr. Adachi.
手づくりあったか味噌
Handmade warm miso

Handmade Attaka Miso" is sold in Hokuryu Town.

Handmade Attaka Miso" is sold at the Sunflower Park Hokuryu Hot Springs Shop and at the Hokuryu Commercial Revitalization Facility "COCOWA".

Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen

サンフラワーパーク北竜温泉
Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen
サンフラワーパーク北竜温泉ショップにて販売
Sold at Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen Shop

COCOWA, a commercial revitalization facility in Hokuryu Town

北竜町商業活性化施設「ココワ」にて販売
COCOWA, a commercial revitalization facility in Hokuryu Town
北竜町商業活性化施設「ココワ」にて販売
Sold at COCOWA, a commercial revitalization facility in Hokuryu-cho
北竜町商業活性化施設「ココワ」にて販売
Sold at COCOWA, a commercial revitalization facility in Hokuryu-cho
 
Handmade Attaka Miso" is a precious miso made from rice and soybeans grown at Ryuunishi Farm in Hokuryu Town and home-produced rice malt.

We are proud to present the "Handmade Warm Miso" from Ryuunishi Farm, which has been bathed in the full energy of the sun in the great nature of Hokuryu Town, with unlimited love, gratitude, and prayers.

竜西農場の「手づくりあったか味噌」に、限りない愛と感謝と祈りをこめて。。。
We wish to express our endless love, gratitude, and prayers for Ryuunishi Farm's "Handmade Attaka Miso".

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◇ Photography and Editing: Noboru Terauchi Reporting and Writing: Ikuko Terauchi
 

(Ryuunishi Farm Co.

地図:(株)竜西農場・和事務所Wa Office] 23-18, Aza-Wa, Hokuryu-cho, Amaryu-gun, Hokkaido
Tel: 0164-34-2837 Fax: 0164-34-5872
Rice, minor grains, other vegetables
Production and Sales] Miso and Koji
E-mail] ryusai.farm◇gj8.so-net.ne.jp (Please convert ◇ to half-width @ and use it)

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