"Homemade Warm Miso" made with rice and soybeans from Hokuryu Town and free of artificial seasonings, has a nostalgic, traditional taste (Ryusei Farm Co., Ltd.)

Monday, February 21, 2022

Ryusei Farm Co., Ltd. (CEO: Akihiro Adachi) produces "Homemade Warm Miso" using rice and soybeans grown on Ryusei Farm. We spent four days covering the miso-making process.

"Homemade Warm Miso" has been produced by the Ryusei Farm Agricultural Cooperative since around 1975. Even after it was transferred to Ryusei Farm Co., Ltd., the production method was continued and has been improved upon to the present day.

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Ryusei Farm Co., Ltd. Japanese Office & Miso Factory

The factory where miso is currently made was newly built seven years ago.

Ryusei Farm Co., Ltd. (Representative Director: Akihiro Adachi) Japanese Office
Ryusei Farm Co., Ltd. (Representative Director: Akihiro Adachi) Japanese Office

Working members

The working members are Naoko Adachi, Mihoko Nagai, Miki Akamatsu, and Miyuki Takahashi, and are mainly made up of farming mothers.

Ingredients (no artificial seasonings added): soybeans (produced in Hokuryu, not genetically modified), rice (produced in Hokuryu), salt

The ingredients are rice from Ryusei Farm (a blend of Nanatsuboshi and Yukisayaka rice) and soybeans from Ryusei Farm (non-genetically modified), koji mold (seed koji) sourced from Akita Konno Shoten (Daisen City, Akita Prefecture), and regular salt.

Steamed rice is mixed with koji mold to make rice koji, and then boiled soybeans, salt, and rice koji are mixed together to make miso, which is then left to mature for about one and a half to two years.

Hokuryu Town-grown rice "Yukisayaka"

Hokuryu Town-grown rice "Yukisayaka"
Hokuryu Town-grown rice "Yukisayaka"

Hokuryu Town soybeans

Toyomizuki soybeans from Hokuryu Town
Toyomizuki soybeans from Hokuryu Town

Diamond Salt Regular Salt

Diamond Salt Regular Salt
Diamond Salt Regular Salt

The taste of warm handmade miso

Most miso in Hokkaido has a koji to soy ratio of 1:1, but "Homemade Warm Miso" has a koji to soy ratio of 0.7:1. Because the koji ratio is relatively low, the miso is less sweet and has a stronger saltiness. If anything, it is said to have a taste closer to the regular miso of Honshu.

Homemade warm miso
Homemade warm miso

Steps for making miso

Miso is made about three times a year, with about 400 kg of "homemade warm miso" produced each time. This was the last batch of miso for the season.

1. Steam the rice that has been soaked in water overnight and drained.

  • Steam in a steamer for about 30 minutes after steam rises (99 kg rice: 4.5 kg x 22 bags)
Rice soaked in water overnight
Rice soaked in water overnight
Steam the rice after soaking and draining it thoroughly.
Steam the rice after soaking and draining it thoroughly.
Steam in a steamer for about 30 minutes
Steam in a steamer for about 30 minutes
Steamed rice
Steamed rice

2. Leave the steamed rice for about 10 minutes, then cool it to about 40℃ (42-43℃) and sprinkle the koji mold (seed cutter).

  • Mix koji mold and potato starch in a ratio of about 1:7.5 and shake. The potato starch is added to increase the fermentation rate (2g of koji mold is added to 22kg of rice).
Spread the steamed rice and let it cool
Spread the steamed rice and let it cool
Cool while measuring the temperature
Cool while measuring the temperature
Measuring the amount of koji mold and potato starch
Measuring the amount of koji mold and potato starch
Sprinkle with koji mold and potato starch
Sprinkle with koji mold and potato starch
mix
mix

3. Place the rice mixed with the koji starter in a wooden box, cover with a cloth, and place in a warmer to heat and ferment.

  • The warmer holds 90 kg of rice koji and is filled with hot water to maintain humidity. Temperature and humidity are important for maturation. A seedling incubator is used as the warmer.
The rice sprinkled with koji mold is placed in a wooden box.
The rice sprinkled with koji mold is placed in a wooden box.
Cover with a dish towel
Cover with a dish towel
Put in a warmer
Put in a warmer

4. Ferment while carefully controlling the temperature (keep warm for 48 hours)

Matured in a warmer while controlling temperature and humidity
Matured in a warmer while controlling temperature and humidity
  • Keep warm at 35°C (30°C to 40°C is the optimal temperature for breeding)
  • Koji mold becomes inactive below 15°C, and will self-destruct if it heats up and exceeds 50°C.
  • Koji mold reproduces while breathing, and generates heat and carbon dioxide gas during breathing.
  • If the air is not exchanged properly, the bacteria will not be able to reproduce due to lack of oxygen, so frequent temperature adjustment is necessary.

5. Turning the rice koji (flour kneading)

  • The next day, mix the rice to allow the koji mold to ferment.
Rice koji cut back
Rice koji cut back
Cover with a cloth and return to the warmer to mature.
Cover with a cloth and return to the warmer to mature.

6. Dekoji (Miso koji)

  • After aging is complete, the rice is transferred to a large wooden box and loosened to release heat (koji brewing).
Laying bleached wood in a large wooden box
Laying bleached wood in a large wooden box
Remove the rice koji from the wooden box and spread it out
Remove the rice koji from the wooden box and spread it out
  • The koji is in a good state of fermentation when fluffy white flowers appear around the rice.
  • Koji contains many enzymes

The difference between "koji" and "koji": "koji" is a Japanese character created in Japan. The kanji comes from the appearance of Aspergillus oryzae growing on rice like a flower. "koji" is a kanji that comes from China. It is made by steaming grains and allowing Aspergillus oryzae to grow. (Quoted from Marukome

Fluffy white flower-blooming koji
Fluffy white flower-blooming koji

7. Draining salt

  • Mix salt (6 kg) and koji (8.5 kg). By mixing salt, fermentation stops and the temperature does not rise, so it can be stored as is for a day and can be worked on the next day.
Mix the rice koji with salt
Mix the rice koji with salt

8. Soak the soybeans overnight, drain, and boil or steam (alternate between boiling in a pot and steaming).

  • Total amount of soybeans this time: 4 kg x 30 bags
    Wash the bag in running water and soak it overnight.
  • Boil 24 kg of soybeans (6 bags of 4 kg each) in one pot for about 30 minutes.
Wash 30 bags of soybeans under running water
Wash 30 bags of soybeans under running water
Soybeans soaked overnight in water and drained
Soybeans soaked overnight in water and drained
boiled in a pot
boiled in a pot
Boil for about 30 minutes while skimming off the scum.
Boil for about 30 minutes while skimming off the scum.
Remove the boiled soybeans
Remove the boiled soybeans
Remove the steamed soybeans from the steamer
Remove the steamed soybeans from the steamer

9. The boiled soybeans are mashed using a machine

Crush the soybeans
Crush the soybeans

10. Roll the mashed soybeans into balls, make a depression in the center (like a red blood cell or donut), and cool to about 40°C.

  • Make a depression in the center to allow the soybeans to cool more easily
Roll the mashed soybeans into balls and make a depression in the center
Roll the mashed soybeans into balls and make a depression in the center
Red blood cell type/donut type
Red blood cell type/donut type
Cool to about 40°C
Cool to about 40°C

11. Miso preparation

  • Mixing rice koji, boiled soybeans, and salt
  • Mix all ingredients (rice koji, boiled soybeans, salt) in a mixer.
Place the cooled soybeans into a mixing bowl.
Place the cooled soybeans into a mixing bowl.
Add salt and rice koji
Add salt and rice koji
Measure and add the seed water (soybean cooking water)
Measure and add the seed water (soybean cooking water)
Mix in a machine
Mix in a machine
Remove the mixed dough
Remove the mixed dough
Preparation is complete
Preparation is complete
Transport to the warehouse and put into barrels
Transport to the warehouse and put into barrels
Knock the lump in to remove the air.
Knock the lump in to remove the air.

12. The miso stored in the barrel is left to age for about one and a half to two years.

Barrel fermentation complete
Barrel fermentation complete

Members' impressions

Naoko Adachi has been making miso for 21 years, making improvements over the years. Mihoko Nagai, Miyuki Takahashi, and Miki Akamatsu, who have been involved in the project as members, have been doing so for 10 years.

From left: Naoko Adachi, Miyuki Takahashi, Mihoko Nagai, Miki Akamatsu
From left: Naoko Adachi, Miyuki Takahashi, Mihoko Nagai, Miki Akamatsu
  • "Since I started making miso here, I've started making it at home. When I give it to people around me, they're very happy. Making miso has been a great experience," says Nagai.
  • "I often give it as a gift to my mother back home, and she is delighted, saying, 'It tastes like the miso of the past, it brings back memories,'" says Takahashi.
  • "I came to observe the miso-making process and when I tasted the miso, I realized that it was exactly the flavor I liked, so I wanted to continue making it.

    I have been making miso for many years, inheriting the tradition from my predecessor, and I am always impressed by the efficiency of the work process, particularly the procedures and arrangement of tools.

    I also participate in various training sessions at the Food Processing Research Center and other institutions, and use what I learn to change my work methods and improve through trial and error.

    Above all, I am really happy that there are people who enjoy eating it," said Adachi.
Homemade warm miso
Homemade warm miso

"Homemade warm miso" is sold within Hokuryu Town

"Homemade Warm Miso" is sold at the Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen Shop and Hokuryu Town's commercial revitalization facility "COCOWA."

Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen

  • 163-2 Itaya, Hokuryu-cho, Uryu-gun, Hokkaido Tel: 0164-34-3321 (Map here >>
Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen
Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen
Available at the Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen Shop
Available at the Sunflower Park Hokuryu Onsen Shop

Hokuryu Town Commercial Revitalization Facility COCOWA

  • Hokkaido Uryu-gun Hokuryu-cho Azawa 6-banchi 6 Tel: 0164-34-4111 (Map here >>
On sale at Hokuryu Town commercial revitalization facility "Kokowa"
Hokuryu Town Commercial Revitalization Facility COCOWA
On sale at Hokuryu Town commercial revitalization facility "Kokowa"
On sale at COCOWA, a commercial revitalization facility in Hokuryu Town
On sale at Hokuryu Town commercial revitalization facility "Kokowa"
On sale at COCOWA, a commercial revitalization facility in Hokuryu Town
 
"Homemade Warm Miso" is a precious miso handed down from Hokuryu Town, made from rice and soybeans grown at Ryusei Farm in Hokuryu Town and rice koji made using a homemade method.

With boundless love, gratitude and prayers, we offer Ryusei Farm's "Handmade Warm Miso," which is grown in the great outdoors of Hokuryu Town and bathed in plenty of solar energy.

With boundless love, gratitude, and prayers, we offer Ryusei Farm's "Homemade Warm Miso"...
With boundless love, gratitude, and prayers, we offer Ryusei Farm's "Homemade Warm Miso"...

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◇ Photography and editing: Noboru Terauchi Interview and text: Ikuko Terauchi
 

Ryusei Farm Co., Ltd.

Map: Ryusei Farm Co., Ltd. Japanese Office[Wa Office] 23-18 Wa, Hokuryu-cho, Uryu-gun, Hokkaido
Tel: 0164-34-2837 Fax: 0164-34-5872
[Production and sales] Rice, miscellaneous grains, and other vegetables
[Manufacturer/Seller] Miso and Koji
[email] ryusai.farm◇gj8.so-net.ne.jp (please replace ◇ with @)